Surfing provides the best feeling there is. People always tell me that it's because I am on an adrenaline rush, but in reality, it's just how great surfing is. When you're on a wave, you can't hear anything except the ocean's sound and your thoughts. It's so peaceful and relaxing. Sure, there are times when a wave smashes you into the ground, and your face hurts like hell afterward, but the pain fades away as soon as you catch another wave. Surfing is about finding the perfect wave and riding it to shore without wiping it out or falling off. It's art in motion. The waves tell a story as they crash one after another, making different sounds at different points as you surf from one side to another.
Surfing provides the best feeling there is. People always tell me that it's because I am on an adrenaline rush, but in reality, it's just how great surfing is. When you're on a wave, you can't hear anything except the ocean's sound and your thoughts. It's so peaceful and relaxing. Sure, there are times when a wave smashes you into the ground, and your face hurts like hell afterward, but the pain fades away as soon as you catch another wave. Surfing is about finding the perfect wave and riding it to shore without wiping it out or falling off. It's art in motion. The waves tell a story as they crash one after another, making different sounds at different points as you surf from one side to another.